I've been holding off from writing this post for a while now, keeping my fingers crossed that I'll eat a breakfast that beats this incredible morning feast I ate in Hoi An last week. So far, though, it's not happened, and to be frank, it would take something pretty bloody spectacular to top this one. So, here it is: The Best Breakfast of my Life.

As with all good breakfasts in Vietnam, it started early. Up and out of bed and on the streets by 7, I was rushing to the market when I encountered this: soymilk, Vietnam-style.

For me, this epitomizes all the differences between China and Vietnam's drinking cultures. In the former, soymilk is drunk hot or warm; in the latter, it's given the same treatment as coffee and tea - iced to within an inch of its life, which in China would be seen as a serious threat to one's health. Me, I adore it, and so nicely refreshed and ready for more substantial fare, I headed to the riverfront market, where, right on the edge of the quay, I found this:

The vendor was serving my quang, one of central Vietnam's most famous noodle dishes: springy rice noodles, beansprouts, herbs, shrimp, quail's eggs, chopped peanuts and a dash of lime juice.

Totally delectable, and even better with the beautiful view.

Most people would probably be satisfied by these two offerings, but predictably, not me. Feeling the weight of all Hoi An market's delicious foods on my shoulders, I felt duty bound to keep eating, and so headed next to a stall whose wares I had sampled the day before.

This is banh khaoi, and the stall came with a recommendation that did not disappoint. In the batter of freshly made pancakes nestles a piece of pork and half a shrimp, upon which is piled beansprouts, fresh herbs and green banana slices; the whole lot is then wrapped up in a sheet of rice paper, and dipped in a sweet and tangy sauce.

Though by this point I was pretty full, I figured I had just enough space for one more drink from a sinh to stall I'd spied just a few doors down.

And oh boy, was a glad that I did, for look what I got.

This wasn't your standard, middle of the road type sinh to, but a luxurious sinh to fit for a queen. Not only was it a blend of a number of different fruits (instead of the normal one), it had a topping which took the drink to a whole different level: crunchy, roasted slivers of coconut, a whole dried Chinese date, and juicy, lychee-flavour jelly cubes. Many different textures going on there, and for some perhaps too many, but I couldn't get enough of it - although, as you might imagine, I drank this last part of The Best Breakfast of my Life very, very slowly.

Last week, I was lucky enough to spend a few days staying less than 100 meters away from the gorgeous beach you see above. This is Non Nuoc, aka China Beach, where American soldiers would come for R'n'R during the war. I doubt it's changed much since those days, and although development of a stretch of 5 star resorts is already underway, it's still blissfully free of tourists, and locals continue their lives undisturbed.

This includes fishing, of which there were two methods that I found particularly fascinating. The first was fishing from coracles, that, when not out at sea, were picturesquely strung along the shore.

I love the paraphernalia of fishing, and these boats are especially beautiful.

Though I never had it confirmed, I guessed from the presence of nets in the boats that the fishermen use these to catch fish from the coracles, which included sardines and swordfish...

...and I also guess that they fish way out in pretty deep waters, because I never saw any fishing near land - only carefully negotiating the waves for the return to shore.

The second note-worthy fishing at Non Nuoc was for sea snails, called oc in Vietnamese.

These pearly, tiny snails were caught right in the surf, barely 50 meters out to sea, and using an extraordinary tool a bit like a broom with a long, narrow net instead of bristles,

which two men would drag along the seabed...

...and then empty into waiting buckets.

Oh, I do like to be beside the seaside...If I hadn't been forced to move on by my guesthouse's closing for the holidays, I think I'd have never left...

Some people like to know what they're putting in their mouth. Not me. I relish trying unknown foods, and many things I've eaten remain a mystery.

Not this beautiful plate though, which I devoured in Da Nang the other day. Thanks to my wonderful local friend Kent (more on whom coming soon), I learnt that the dumplings on the right and back of the plate are called banh bot loc, a recipe for which you can find at this marvelous blog. With the pink and grey dumplings on the left (which I guess are both kinds of cha lua, Vietnamese ham), the blob of chilli jam in the middle, and the chilli powder and fresh coriander sprinkled on top, it made the most delectable snack to satisfy the mid-afternoon munchies.

Banh bot loc vendor
Bach Dang street, near the market
Da Nang

The view from my bathroom at Hoa's Place, Non Nuoc Beach.

I've realised something recently: that I am more than happy to suffer a little diarrhoea in order to eat well.

I never learn. Whenever I'm tired, hot and hungry, I always go for the easiest option - which, surprise surprise, often turns out to be the worst option.

So it was this afternoon when, after 15 minutes walking around under the midday sun in uncomfortable new shoes, I stupidly chose to eat at a place directly opposite my hotel and was duly disappointed. Still, the lackluster omelet and baguette did at least give me enough energy to go looking for something to fill me up properly, and on this mission I am happy to report I did succeed.

Not 5 minutes walk away I found a lady with a freezer, painted on the side of which was 'Kem', aka. ice cream. Thinking I'd perhaps be lucky enough to get a Magnum or Cornetto, you can imagine my surprise and delight to see it filled with cute little tubs and bags of what looked like homemade kem. Encouraged by the friendliness of the lady, I chose the 3 that you see in the opening photo, and this time, I was certainly not disappointed.

The yellow-ish square on the left turned out to be some kind of frozen banana and coconut cake - chewey, sweet and gorgeously cooling; the tub was yogurt, sweet and refreshing, but the absolute winner of the three was the green stuff in the bag - frozen sinh to bo, the avocado smoothie for which Vietnam is famous. This last kem was a perfect balance of sweet and savory, and oh so satisfying when sucked straight out of the bag.

I can see an addiction developing.

Kem vendor
Thai Phien Street, Hoi An.